One of our favorite neighborhoods to visit in BA was La Boca. As a whole, it is actually one of the poorest areas, but near the water, they have transformed the streets into a bustling market that complements the many colorfully painted houses. 
It is a bit touristy, but for a day, it was a great place to hang out, people watch, and catch some more tango and a mobile band of very talented and very jovial drummers.
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